Diamond Education

 Education Menu Metal Education Gemstone Education Sizing Information

 

The following section contains all the information you need in order to wisely select a quality diamond. First, please view the following internet video made by the well-known educational and research institution GIA (Gemological Institute of America) on how diamonds are professionally graded for color, clarity, cut, and carat weight: 

 

 

"Unbreakable","Unalterable",and "Untamed" were some of the earliest words used to describe the world's most precious gemstone: The Diamond. The everlasting properties of these remarkable natural-occurring gems are what make them the top choice for engagement rings. Buying an engagement ring is an important event for you and your fiance, and choosing the right diamond is key. Should you go for a larger diamond or choose a smaller stone of higher quality? Is color an important consideration? How does the cut affect the stone? Is a solitaire diamond best, or is a ring with sidestones a better choice?

 

SHENOA DIAMOND BUYERS GUIDE

 

 

At Shenoa, we strive to provide you with quality diamonds that you can cherish for a lifetime. For over 30 years, we have set the highest standards in the diamond and jewelry business and have earned our reputation for honesty and integrity. The Shenoa & Co. name comes from the American Indian word meaning "peace of mind". Peace of mind is what our customers experience when purchasing a diamond from Shenoa & Co.

 

 

 

This Diamond Buyers Guide is designed to put our customers at ease by providing the tools necessary to make an informed decision when selecting a diamond. The qualities that make a diamond beautiful, along with the factors that determine an exceptional value will be fully examined.

 

Our diamonds have set an industry standard for quality for nearly twenty years. We provide our customers with the finest selection of quality diamonds with which to clebrate the most memorable of occasions. After all, the beauty of every diamond is meant to be treasured for a lifetime.

 

At Shenoa, we strive to provide you with quality diamonds that you can cherish for a lifetime. As our customer we invite you to take a few moments to become familiar with our comprehensive Diamond Buyers Guide.

 


THE DIAMOND

 

 A diamond is a single element of pure or nearly pure carbon. It is the purest of all earth's gem minerals as it is comprised of a sole unadulterated element. Under intense pressure and heat, a diamiond is born as a result of the transformation of crystal to diamond between 75-120 miles below the earth's surface. (It takes one ton of ore to yield a stone of .33 carat weight; 250 tons of rock are required in order to obtain a fine one carat diamond.) A raw diamond crystal remains in this thin band within the earth until a massive volcanic eruption forces it through the earth’s crust in order to surface through kimberlite channel diamond pipes.

 

This incredible journey produces one of the hardest transparent substances known to man. Its unique powers of light reflection allow the diamond to gather light within itself and radiate its brilliance out as an intense rain of sparkling light.

 

It is not surprising then, that the diamond has become one of the most enduring symbols of love, purity, and perfection. It is a treasury worthy of celebrating life’s grandest moments.

 

 

SHAPES

 

The style of a diamond ring is largely controlled by the shape of the stone. No shape is more or less appropriate than another. Selection of the diamond’s shape should be governed by the individual’s personal taste. The six traditional, and most popular diamond shapes are: Round, Oval, Marquise, Pear, Princess, and Emerald.

 

 

It's fairly common to confuse a diamond's cut with its shape. The cut describes a diamond's light performance, dimensions and finish. Shape refers to the overall outline of the diamond when viewed from the top. Round is far and away the most popular diamond shape, followed by squared shapes such as princess, Asscher, and emerald.

 

After the diamond is cut, a ring setting is selected that will draw attention to the stone’s natural beauty. Ideally, the setting should expose as much of the diamond as possible. Additionally, a band should be chosen which will complement both the diamond and the design of the ring.

 

DIAMOND TERMS

 

The following are terms useful for describing diamonds:

 

TABLE:

 

The large, flat “top” facet of a diamond.

 

FACET:

 

The flat, polished planes and surfaces of a diamond.

 

GIRDLE:

 

A diamond’s narrow diameter rim.

 

CROWN:

 

The upper portion of a diamond below the girdle.

 

CULET:

  

The tiny facet on the pointed bottom of a diamond.

 

BRILLIANT CUT:

 

32 facets above and 24 facets below the girdle.

 

BEZEL FACETS:

 

Kite shaped facets on the crown of brilliant cuts.

 

FANCY SHAPE:

 

A diamond shape that is not round.

 

FANCIES:

 

Any diamond color that is not white.

 

 

THE 4Cs

 

A diamond’s quality depends upon the four “C”s, which are Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat Weight. These four categories are considered the universal standards in evaluating the beauty of diamond.

 

 

Before you buy a diamond engagement ring, take time to really understand the quality factors known as the 4Cs - color, clarity, cut, carat-so you feel comfortable juggling them to get just the right combination for you. Knowing how to juggle the 4Cs can enable you to achieve a high-budget look at a reasonable price.

 

CUT

 

Diamond cutting techniques have been refined since the fifteenth century, when master craftsmen passed down their art form from generation to generation. Today, the finest diamond cutting still occurs in the hands of a skilled craftsman.

 

 

Cut determines the fire and the brilliance of the diamond. If the diamond is cut with just the right proportions and at certain precise angles, the stone’s ability to reflect and retract light will be maximized. When the painstaking work of the diamond cutting is properly performed, light will bounce freely within the diamond without escaping through the opposite side or the bottom of the stone. The skill and experience of the diamond cutter will determine the stone’s brilliance and fire.

 

The first and most important thing to look for when selecting a diamond is the cut. Not to be confused with "Shape"(ie. Round, Square, Oval etc.), Cut determines a diamond's brilliance. A rough diamond is cut and polished until the best look is achieved. The Ideal Cut is one that will reflect the maximum amount of light entering the diamond and cause that brilliant sparkle that diamonds are known for. This cut is rare, and the cost of a diamond with an ideal cut will be significantly higher. Some people prefer to buy a larger diamond regardless of it's cut. Other shoppers may simply want a diamond with the best color. These differing factors partly explain why not all diamonds are an ideal cut. Many gemologists consider cut the most important diamond characteristic because even if a diamond has perfect color and clarity, a diamond with a poor cut will have dulled brilliance. The width and depth have the greatest effect on how light travels within the diamond, and how it exits in the form of brilliance. Each facet should be precisely cut while maintaining good symmetry and polish of the diamond.

 

If a Diamond is cut..

 

Too Deep: Light entering from the top escapes out the sides causing the diamond to appear dark and dull.

 

Too Shallow: Light entering from the top is lost out the bottom causing the diamond to lose brilliance.

 

Ideal: Light will enter the diamond directly from the top and bounce effectively off of each facet within the diamond then return back through the top creating a brilliant sparkling effect.


Consider the various Cut Grades:

 

Ideal Cut: Maximum light reflection, superior proportions, showcases the true beauty of a diamond, very rare, expensive.

 

Excellent Cut: Higher grade with great symmetry and light reflection, more available than ideal cut and less expensive.

 

Very Good Cut: The most common cut, reflects slightly less light then the EX (Excellent) Cut, moderately priced.

 

Fair Cut: A step lower than the VG (Very Good) Cut, slightly below-average brightness, most affordable cut.

 

Poor Cut: These diamonds are highly undesirable due to their dark appearance and low value.

 

*Grading certificates will show the key diamond measurements in relation to cut as well as other important information.

 

CUT SPECIFICATIONS:

 

 

G.I.A. ON FLUORESCENCE:

 

 

Once you have chosen a cut grade that fits your preference and your budget, the most difficult selection criteria is done. Let's make the next selection: Color.

 

COLOR

 

The best color for a diamond is NO color. A totally colorless or "high-color" diamond best allows white light to pass effortlessly through it and be dispersed as rainbows of color known as "fire". While many diamonds may appear colorless to the untrained eye, the majority contain very slight traces of yellow and brown tones. The intensity of these added hues in a diamond affect their value. When you look at them side by side with a jeweler, you can appreciate the simple beauty of a stone that has no underlying hue. In regards to color you may find a diamond that visually appears white enough though it may have a very slight yellow hue with a "near-colorless" grade. This alone can bring down the price of your diamond purchase significantly. A G.I.A. Certificate will guarantee your diamond's color quality.

 

By rare accidents of nature, such as impurities or structural defects diamonds may occur in twelve other colors which are called Fancies. They are graded based on the characteristics of the color, such as the tone and saturation of it's hue. They are extremely rare (ie. Red Diamonds) and can be quite expensive.
Now that your diamond has the right Cut and Color, it's time to look within and grade it's Clarity.
Clarity (can be a link, or button, or using the "education menu bar" at the top of this text, or both)


Diamonds range in color from colorless to yellow. Even though most diamonds appear colorless to the untrained eye, the majority of diamonds contain traces of brown or yellow. The closer the stone is to colorless, the more valuable the diamond.

 

 

 

It should be noted that fancy colored stones are also rare and desirable. Accidents of nature have produced stones in shades of yellow, pink, blue, green and red.

 

The Gemological institute of America (GIA) has established a grading system for diamond color. Depending on the size of the stone, a single increase in the color grade of a diamond can increase its value by thousands of dollars.

 

The following is the GIA grading system:

 

Grade D, E, F: Colorless. Known also as Fine White or River White.

 

Grade G, H, I, J: Near colorless. Also known as White.

 

Grade K, L, M: Faint yellow. These diamonds are also referred to as Top Silver.

 

Grade M, N, O, P, Q, R: Very Light Yellow.

 

Grades S-Z: Light Yellow.

 

 

CLARITY

 

Forming under high-pressure conditions deep within the Earth, Diamonds rarely escape without some minor additives. These are called inclusions. They are tiny impurities or blemishes found within a diamond that may or may not affect it's light-reflecting abilities and durability. Another thing they affect is value. A diamond's Clarity is measured as the degree to which a diamond is free from these natural imperfections. The fewer the inclusions the rarer the stone. Diamonds are inspected for clarity at 10x magnification. Typical inclusions are: clouds, feathers, crystals or minerals, and cavities to name a few. Blemishes, which are present on the surface, can be polish lines, scratches, chips, and pits.


Most diamonds contain very tiny natural birthmarks known as inclusions. Inclusions interfere with the passage of light through the diamond and therefore effects the diamond\'s brilliance. Most inclusions require magnification to become visible. The fewer the inclusions the rarer the stone. The degree to which a diamond is free from these imperfections will determine the Clarity of the gem.

 

Clarity refers to the number of imperfections, or inclusions, that exist within a diamond. Diamonds with the fewest inclusions possess the most clarity and are the most valuable. The following is the GIA grading system for clarity:

 

FL; Flawless.

 

IF: Internally Flawless. No inclusions visible at 10x; insignificant surface blemishes.

 

VVS1: Minute inclusions; extremely difficult to see at 10x.

 

VVS2: Minor inclusions; very difficult to see at 10x.

 

VS1: Minor inclusions; somewhat easy to see face up at 10x.

 

VS2: Minor inclusions; somewhat easy to see face up at 10x.

 

SI1: Noticeable inclusions at 10x; visible to the unaided eye.

 

SI2: Noticeable inclusions; very easy to see at 10x.

 

I1: Obvious inclusions; visible to the unaided eye.

 

I2: Obvious inclusions; easily visible to the unaided eye.

 

I3: Prominent inclusions; extremely easy to see with the unaided eye.

 

 

Even though a truly flawless diamond is extremely rare, a diamond is said to be flawless if no inclusions are present. Diamonds with clarity ratings of at least VS are considered exceptionally clear stones.

 

CARAT WEIGHT

 

Carat weight is the standard measure of a diamond’s size. Carat weight is expressed in fractions or decimals. (i.e. A diamond of a ¼ carat possesses an approximate carat weight of .0.25; similarly, a one carat stone is represented as a diamond with a carat weight of 1.00) carat weight alone can not determine a diamond’s worth, even if the size of the stone appears impressive. The value of a large stone is always dependent upon its brilliance, purity and color. Carat weight should be a factor to be considered in an evaluation of a high quality diamond since larger stones are simply more rare than smaller ones. Additionally, the combined carat weight of a grouping of several smaller stones is not as expensive or valuable as a single tone of the same carat weight.

 

Cost can be the most important aspect of your diamond purchase. Diamonds are priced by the PER CARAT basis. There are weight categories that will effect the price per carat for a specific quality diamond. As weight category increases so will price per carat. The weight categories are:

 

.70 - .89ct
.90 - .99 ct
1.00 - 1.49 ct
1.50 - 1.99 ct
2.00 - 2.99 ct

 

 

Once you have understood the characteristics of the 4Cs – Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat weight, allow Shenoa & Co. opportunity to help you weigh all of the complex factors that are involved in the purchase of a diamond and to show you why we deserve the confidence and trust of our clients.

 

CERTIFICATION

 

A Diamond Certificate is a document issued by a laboratory describing a diamond or jewelry product. There are various laboratories that grade gems and jewelry. A Diamond Certificate or report issues a "grade" indicating the physical properties of the Diamond "at the time of evaluation". A certificate is a document which retains its value over a long period of time, assuming the Diamond does not chip or is not otherwise altered.

 

There are various Laboratories that grade diamonds. The diamonds that are graded are popularly called "certified" or "certified diamonds", while actually these diamonds should be referred to as being accompanied by a grading report, or quality report. Shenoa sells diamonds that come with grading reports from the Gemological Institute of America, one of the most well known, as well as the Laboratories below:

 

GIA
Gemological Institute of America

 

AGS
American Gem Society

 

IGI
International Gemological Institute

 

EGL
European Gemological Laboratory

 

HRD
Antwerp Diamond High Council

 

NGL
National Gemological Laboratories

 

PGS
Professional Gem Sciences

 

An Appraisal can be performed on a loose Diamond, a mounted stone, or jewelry. If the stone is not loose, the physical properties are estimated using various estimation techniques. Most importantly, an appraisal indicates the Dollar Value of the piece under consideration. Obviously, the Dollar Value can easily change considerably over a relatively short period of time. Appraisals are most often used for insurance purposes.

 

Many people make the mistake of using an retail appraiser to evaluate the purchase price of their Diamond. It is best to use a non-biased appraiser, that does professional analysis of jewelry. Appraisers that sell their own jewelry may be biased and should be avoided.

 

 

Shenoa & Co. employs GIA graduate gemologists to find and analyze jewelry that passes through it's inventor

 

At Shenoa & Co. At Shenoa & Co. we only sell diamonds that meet our exacting standards and that are backed by certificates from the finest laboratories in the world. The G.I.A. grading system, which these laboratories employ, is heavily relied upon by the jewelry industry to provide the most authoritative and accurate information regarding the quality of a diamond. Issued by an independent certified gemologist, these reports provide a thorough evaluation of each stone and identifies the diamond's imperfections. The information listed is so specific, that it can be used to identify a particular stone at a later date.

 

 

When a Diamond Grading report is obtained, one can be assured, that the stone is not man-made, since reputable internationally recognized laboratories will not grade synthetic diamonds. Furthermore, these reports will not be awarded to a clarity enhanced diamonds. Clarity enhancement involves the filling of fractures that exist in poor quality stones by a reversible chemical treatment. Because this process is used mostly to improve the appearance of diamonds that would be classified below the GIA’s lowest clarity rating of I-3, a report would not be issued for stones of such poor quality.